Variance analysis on Physical Properties of 100% Cotton 1/1 Plain Woven Fabrics.

doi:10.21203/rs.3.rs-1430572/v1

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Variance analysis on Physical Properties of 100% Cotton 1/1 Plain Woven Fabrics.

https://doi.org/10.21203/rs.3.rs-1430572/v1

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The purpose of this article is to examine the physical attributes of three distinct types of 100% cotton 1/1 plain woven fabrics. Fabrics such as canvas, poplin, and voile were considered. These textiles have a 60-inch width in common. Tear strength, tensile strength, weight (g/m2), cover factor, shrinkage, and air permeability, as well as Martindale pilling resistance and Ultra-Violet Transmission rate, were all investigated. The experiments are performing through the ASTM & AATCC Standards evaluate procedure, which is mentioned further down in this document. In comparison to poplin and voile, canvas cloth has superior weight and strength qualities and air transmission rate. The shrinkage values & ultra-violet factors of voile fabrics higher than the other two textiles. The air permeability of canvas fabrics is higher. The research is based on exercise, and the findings favor to the textile experts. Researchers will be able to pursue this field further because of this exploration.

Materials Chemistry

Construction

Strength

Air transmission

Cover Factor

Ultra-Violet Protector factors etc.

There is immense importance of this research in the field of cotton fabrics manufacturing industries as well as retailers. Different scholars worked regarding this investigation at various times where literature review exposed different consequences. Some of them were parallel and some of them were widely different. Cotton fibers are obtained from nature and fabrics made with cotton yarns are comfortable to the wearer [1]. Strength is directly related to the polyester content percentage of the cotton-polyester blended woven fabrics [2].

Woven fabrics are made by the interlacement of two different sets of yarns. In these two sets, one is called the warp and another is called the weft. Woven fabrics are made with the interlacement process of warp and weft at a right angle. Generally, woven fabrics are manufactured in weaving loom, and made of yarns woven on a warp and a weft [3]. Woven fabrics are manufactured by both natural and synthetic fibers and are frequently made from a combination of together [4].

Woven fabrics are mainly three types such as plain, twill, and satin. Plain weave fabrics are mainly manufactured by the two sets of yarns with the 1 up and 1 down process at right angles. Plain weave is a fabric that is strong and hard-wearing and is applied for elegance and furnishing fabrics [5]. In this weave, the warp and weft yarns stay at right angles and create a durable fabric. Every weft yarn passes the warp yarn by moving above one and then below the following, and so on. The subsequent weft yarn goes below the warp yarn that its belonging passes over, and vice versa [6].

Among plain weave fabrics, balanced clothes are prepared with the warp and weft yarns the same count and a similar measure of picks and ends per inch of clothes. In the basket-weave fabric, two or more yarns are laid together and then interlaced with each other [7]. These yarns run parallel to their corresponding yarns. Muslin is a type of fabric that is made up of 100% cotton yarns with the interlacement portion of one up and one down. The yarn count of muslin clothes is very fine ranges from 200Ne to 300Ne [8]. The Thermal molding technique was applied to make the nonwoven composite by hot pressing. Nonwoven materials of different thickness were produced with two fibers were cheaper, stronger and lighter which were used in the interior part of the complex. [9]. Sustainable dyes are eco-friendly, biodegradable, economical, and easily attainable from natural sources. Natural dyes have a reactive group that reacted with the cellulose of cotton fabrics in an alkaline condition to create a stable covalent bond between to dye and cellulose showing outstanding colorfastness properties of the plain weave. [10]. This strength of woven cloth is one of the most significant characteristics which make it bigger in many applications as related to nonwoven and knitted clothes.

The property of shrinkage is expressed as the change of measurement through the length and width of the clothes after washing, either in hot water or in cold water [11]. When cotton fabrics are submerged in water, they started to shrink in both warp and weft ways to neutralize pressures obtained from the processing finishing department. Shrinkage values are both types like positive and negative. Positive shrinkage refers that a fabric that will increase in length after washing. Wherein negative shrinkage fabrics started to shrink or reduce their length after washing [12].

The Cover factor is a technical dimension of the proportion area of the cloth enclosed by the yarns. The Cover factor is dependent on the construction of the clothes and the type of yarns used. Plain weave fabrics expressed the best cover factor values compared to twill and satin weave fabrics [13]. Air permeability is a property that measures how effortlessly air passes through the clothes. It specifies the breathability of fabrics. The more the air-permeability is, the better the breathability is. Air-permeable clothes have a habit to have moderately high moisture vapor diffusion capacities [14]. Canvas fabric expressed a higher value of weight and strength compared to poplin and voile, on the other hand, voile fabric expressed a better value of shrinkage compared to the other two fabrics. Canvas shows the highest value of air transmission ability [15].

2.1 Materials:

To evaluate the physical properties of materials, 100 percent cotton 1/1 plain woven fabrics were utilized in this investigation, as indicated in Table 1. Three distinct types of fabrics with varied structures but the same width were chosen for this investigation. The fabrics were all plain weave and made of uncontaminated cotton yarns. Poplin fabrics are manufactured with 38Ne warp and weft yarn count with EPI 102 and PPI 92, whereas canvas fabrics are made with 30Ne both warp and weft yarn count with construction 92 Ends per inch (EPI) and Picks per inch (PPI) 78. In the EPI 110 and PPI 100 structures, voile textiles are created with 48Ne warp and weft count yarns.

Table 1

Materials used in this research
S. N	Fiber Content	Construction	Weave	Width (Inch)
A	100% Cotton Canvas	$\frac{30\times 30}{92\times 78}$	$Plain\left(\frac{1}{1}\right)$	60
B	100% Cotton Poplin	$\frac{38\times 38}{102\times 92}$		60
C	100% Cotton Voile	$\frac{48\times 48}{110\times 100}$		60

2.2 Methodology:

The American Society for Textile Materials (ASTM) and the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standards were used to test the samples, which are listed in this report. Before performing the test, the test specimens are allowed to establish equilibrium in a controlled environment. The ASTM D1776 practice conditioning standard is applied to each test.

3.1 The analysis of Weight per square meter (g/m2)

The ASTM D3776 standard was used to determine the specimen's weight. The weight was calculated based on the mass per unit area of fabric. A round GSM cutter was used to determine the sample weight. The fabrics were first conditioned in accordance with ASTM D1776 after being removed from the industry. To avoid selvage and acquire the average weight of the outfits, fabric was cut five times with a round GSM cutter. To get the results, the fabric was cut and then placed in the measuring balance. The results are summarized in Table 2.

3.2 The Tear Strength Experiment

Tear strength was determined using a pendulum in accordance with the ASTM D1424 standard. The two clamps were disconnected at a distance and associated in such a way that the clamped samples stayed in a plane parallel to the axis by the pendulum C in its original location. After cutting the samples in half with scissors, one half was attached to the instrument and the other half was secured to the pendulum in such a way that while splitting, the tear strength was recorded using the pendulum reading and the findings were acquired and positioned in table 3. Figure 2 depicts the technique of determining cloth tear strength.

3.3 The Tensile Strength Experiment

The tensile strength was determined using ASTM D5034, which is a grab test system for determining breaking force and elongation of woven materials. Fabric samples were trimmed into four-inch square shapes. The samples were then clamped, and a force was applied to shatter the specimen at a rate of 12

inches per minute, with a jaw gap of 3 inches between the two jaw systems. The samples' top and lower halves were clamped at the jaw.

A signal was issued to start the machine using a computer until the cloth was destroyed to 60% of its original size. Ruptured due to upward force from the device with a static downward clam. Table 4 illustrates the tensile strength of fabrics created using the procedure in Fig. 3.

3.4 Shrinkage Experiment

The AATCC 135 standard was used to determine the fabric's dimensional stability or shrinkage. The fabric was cut into 40-inch squares and interlock stitching was added to the edges of the garments to prevent the yarns from being removed by heavy laundry in a washing machine. With a permanent marker, a 36-inch square form was drawn on the fabric for measurement. The sample was placed in the washing machine and washed for 5 minutes at 60°C. After that, the sample was washed at room temperature. After that, the sample was dried in the machine with hot air for 3 minutes. In the end, the samples were removed, and the dimensions were measured with a measurement tape.

3.5 Cover Factor Experiment

The Cover factor determines how much of the cloth's surface is covered by the yarns. It refers to the proportion of the entire fabric surface covered by yarns. The fabric's compactness, firmness, and density are also described by the cover factor. The example cover factor values were calculated using Eq. 1 as shown below. The cover factor of three types of samples from Table 1 were calculated using this equation, and the results were entered into Table 2. The values of EPI, PPI, warp count, and weft count are required in this equation. ASTM D1059 standards were used to verify the yarn count.

$$\left[\left\{\left(\frac{\text{E}\text{P}\text{I}}{\sqrt{\text{w}\text{a}\text{r}\text{p} \text{c}\text{o}\text{u}\text{n}\text{t}}}\right)+ \left(\frac{\text{P}\text{P}\text{I}}{\sqrt{\text{w}\text{e}\text{f}\text{t} \text{c}\text{o}\text{u}\text{n}\text{t}}}\right)\right\}-\left[\frac{\left\{\left(\frac{\text{E}\text{P}\text{I}}{\sqrt{\text{w}\text{a}\text{r}\text{p} \text{c}\text{o}\text{u}\text{n}\text{t}}}\right)\times \left(\frac{\text{P}\text{P}\text{I}}{\sqrt{\text{w}\text{e}\text{f}\text{t} \text{c}\text{o}\text{u}\text{n}\text{t}}}\right)\right\}}{28}\right]\right]\times \text{W}\text{e}\text{a}\text{v}\text{e} \text{f}\text{a}\text{c}\text{t}\text{o}\text{r}$$

Equation 1: Cover Factor computation formula.

3.6 Experiment on Air Permeability

According to the ASTM D737 standard, air permeability is defined as the rate of airflow traveling perpendicularly through a fabric between two surfaces. The airflow rate is expressed in ft3/min/ft2. The ability of a material to allow air to move through the clothes is known as air permeability. Where the clothing is stiffer, the estimate of air permeability is lower. Where materials were slackly woven, the air permeability concept was complicated. The air pressure over the samples was 125 Pa, with the laboratory temperature at 20°C and a relative humidity of 65 percent, and the results are shown in table 7 and Fig. 4.

3.7 Martindale Pilling Resistance Experiment

The pilling resistance of the cloths was measured according to the ASTM D4970 Standard's test technique. Specimen testing was done in a controlled environment. The fabric was cut into three pairs of specimens, three of which are 5.5 inches in diameter and the other three of which are 1.5 inches in diameter. Install one 5.5-inch-diameter standard felt and one 5.5-inch-diameter fabric specimen. In each container, place a 1.5-inch-diameter disk of 3 mm polyurethane foam and a fabric sample of the same 1.5-diameters. Start the machine and operate it for 100 movements without any load. The ratings were taken one at a time and the average result was recorded.

3.8 Ultraviolet Radiation Protection Resistance Experiment:

UV-R is electromagnetic radiation that we cannot see or feel that is emitted by natural or artificial sources. A spectrophotometer is used to measure the transmission of ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) through the fabric at known wavelength intervals. The UV protection factor (UPF) is calculated as the ratio of the erthemally weighted ultraviolet radiation irradiance at the detector with a specimen present to the erthemally weighted ultraviolet radiation irradiance at the detector without a specimen present. The AATCC-183 method is used to conduct the ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) test. The test was done in two different conditions: dry medium and wet medium. Specimens are cut into 50x50 mm squares to avoid distortion and selvage.

Test a minimum of two (2) specimens from each sample for the wet and the dry testing. Cut each specimen at least 50 × 50 mm (2.0 × 2.0 in.) or 50 mm (2.0 in.) in diameter. Avoiding the distortion of specimen during preparation and handling.

4.1 Weight measurement:

The specimen's weight in g/m2 was determined using the ASTM D3776 Standard's test technique. Table 2 displays the results. Table 2 shows that fabrics with a coarser yarn count have a heavier weight than those with a finer count. Canvas materials are always thicker than poplin and voile fabrics. An electric balance was used to determine the average weight of five specimens, which was then positioned in Table 2.

4.2 Analysis of Tear and Tensile Strength:

The specimen's split strength was evaluated by using the ASTM D 1424 Method, which is the industry standard. This approach uses a falling pendulum equipment to provide a test report. Table 2 displays the strength values. Coarser fabrics have been demonstrated to have higher tear strength than finer materials. This is because of coarser yarns are more durable than finer yarns.

Tensile strength was determined according to ASTM D 5034 Method. This approach is used to determine a fabric's breaking strength. The central section of the sample is riveted in the jawline in this test. This experiment was carried out in both the warp and weft directions. Because it is sized with poly vinyl alcohol (PVA) weft yarn that is not sized, the warp direction Extension percentage is minimal. The tensile strength of canvas cloth was the highest, while poplin and voile fabrics were the weakest. The tensile report and extension percent report are shown in Table 2.

4.3 Shrinkage measurement:

The fabrics' dimensional stability was determined using the AATCC-135 test technique. This test method calculates cotton fabric shrinkage in both the warp and weft directions. The EPI is higher than the PPI because the warp and weft yarns were sized. The shrinkage of various materials are shown in Table 2.

4.5 Cover Factor Calculation

The area of woven fabrics covered by one set of strands is expressed as a cover factor. Based on the warp/weft ratio between the neighborhood's yarns, this value represents the tightness and looseness of materials. The cover factor of various fabrics is displayed in Table 2. The data shows that 100 percent cotton canvas fabric has the highest cover factor value, while 100 percent cotton voile fabric has the lowest. Among these three samples, poplin fabric has the middle value of a cover factor.

4.6 Air Permeability Test:

Air permeability refers to a fabric's ability to transmit air. Where the materials are more rigid, the flow rate of air permeability is smaller. When materials are loosely woven, air permeability ratings are higher. Air permeability values are confirmed and included into Table 2 using the ASTM D737 standard as a guide. The permeability of the air was measured in feet per minute (ft3/min). The table shows that 100 percent Cotton Canvas showed the greatest amount of air permeability. In contrast, the air permeability of 100 percent Cotton Voile was the lowest. It was discovered that the fabric's architecture and yarn count have a direct impact on the fabric's ability to transport air through its surface.

4.7 Martindale pilling resistance grading:

This method covers the use of the Martindale tester to determine the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on fabrics. Pilling grades are verified and placed in Table 2 in accordance with the ASTM D4970 standard. The experimental pilling resistance is reported on an arbitrary scale ranging from 5 to 1. (No pilling to severe pilling). According to the Table 2, 100 percent Cotton Canvas exposed the highest pill resistance value. Alternatively, 100 percent Cotton Voile demonstrated the lowest pill resistance when rubbed face to face.

Table 2

Physical properties of fabrics
Fiber composition	Construction	weave	Weight (g/m²)	Cover factor			Tear strength		Tensile strength		Shrinkage%		Air Transmission rate(ft³/min)	Pilling grade	UPF
Fiber composition	Construction	weave	Weight (g/m²)	Warp	Weft	Total	Warp (gm)	Weft (gm)	Warp (lbs)	Weft (lbs)	Warp %	Weft %	Air Transmission rate(ft³/min)	Pilling grade	Dry	Wet
100% cotton canvas	$\frac{28\times 28}{90\times 78}$	Plain 1/1	160	22.2	14.5	25.6	2186	2055	64	48	-1.5	-2.5	107	4.5	95.3	39.1
100% cotton Poplin	$\frac{36\times 36}{102\times 90}$	Plain 1/1	146	24.9	15.0	29.5	1788	1698	45	36	1.0	1.5	89	4.5	103.2	46.7
100% cotton Voile	$\frac{48\times 48}{110\times 100}$	Plain 1/1	115	26.1	16.8	31.4	1705	1570	37	31	1.0	1.5	76	4.0	110.2	51.0

4.8 Measurement of Ultra-violet Protection Factor:

To measure the degree of UVR protection of fabrics, the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) is defined as the ratio of average effective UV radiation irradiance transmitted and calculated through the air [effective dose – ED] to the average effective UV radiation irradiance transmitted and calculated through the fabric [effective dose - ED_f] [EN 13758-1, 2002; Scott, 2005]

UV light flows through the open areas of fabrics (macropores) and through the yarns, where it changes direction before leaving the fabric with scattered UV transmission. Few researchers have been conducting on few fabrics constructional characteristics that best describe the fabric structure and have a direct and significant impact on UV protection. Fabric cover factor, fabric open porosity, fabric mass, fabric thickness, and other factors have all played a part. [Gies et al., 1998; Dimitrovski et al., 2009; Gabrijeli et al., 2009; Hatch & Osterwalder, 2006; Dimitrovski et al., 2009; Dimitrovski et al., 2009; Dimitrovski et al., 2009; Dimitrovski et al., 2009; Dimitrovski et al. The obtained value is inserted into Table 2 shows the differences among these fabrics.

The physical parameters of 100 percent cotton 1/1 plain woven fabrics were documented throughout the research, and this paper examined recent research on this topic. Fabrics with a 1/1 plain weave structure, such as canvas, poplin, and voile, were used to create these fabrics. Compared to poplin and voile textiles, canvas fabrics have a heavier form and thickness. When compared to the other two textiles, poplin, and voile, it also has the highest tear, tensile strength, and pilling resistance. Due to tight, loose strands and interlaced warp yarns in the weft, canvas fabrics show a -3% percent shrinkage compared to poplin and voile fabrics. It expressed 25.6 cover factor values despite its bulkier shape.

The right mix of elements allows for the creation of UV-protective passive woven fabrics, which can help to lower the risk of UV overexposure either dry or wet condition. The number of EPI and PPI with a yarn count & kind of weave, yarn fineness, fabric tightness, fabric cover factor, and Ultraviolet protective factor (UPF) with GSM values are cleared that it directly stimulates the physical qualities of the fabric, apart from shrinkage & ultra-violet protection factors (UPF) values seen reversed. The findings of this studies are beneficiary to fabric technologist who deal with the production of cotton-woven fabrics and the regulation of their physical qualities as desired end products. Recently, researchers have used self-assembly technology and nanoparticles to create anti-ultraviolet and anti-aging cotton fabrics.

Competing interests: The author declares no competing interests.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The author wishes to express his gratitude to Muhammad Maruf Hossain (Senior Texting Engineer), Physical Testing Department, SGS Bangladesh Ltd. for his ongoing support in the area of test manipulation.

Professor Shan Du, College of Textiles, Zhongyuan University of Technology, Zhengzhou, Henan, China, was also a source of inspiration for the author.

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Variance analysis on Physical Properties of 100% Cotton 1/1 Plain Woven Fabrics.

Status:

Version 1

Abstract

Figures

Introduction

MATERIALS AND PROCEDURE

2.1 Materials:

2.2 Methodology:

THE EXPERIMENTATION

3.1 The analysis of Weight per square meter (g/m2)

3.2 The Tear Strength Experiment

3.3 The Tensile Strength Experiment

3.4 Shrinkage Experiment

3.5 Cover Factor Experiment

3.6 Experiment on Air Permeability

3.7 Martindale Pilling Resistance Experiment

3.8 Ultraviolet Radiation Protection Resistance Experiment:

Discussion And Result

4.1 Weight measurement:

4.2 Analysis of Tear and Tensile Strength:

4.3 Shrinkage measurement:

4.5 Cover Factor Calculation

4.6 Air Permeability Test:

4.7 Martindale pilling resistance grading:

4.8 Measurement of Ultra-violet Protection Factor:

CONCLUSION

Declarations

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

References

Status:

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S. N	Fiber Content	Construction	Weave	Width (Inch)
A	100% Cotton Canvas	\(\frac{30\times 30}{92\times 78}\)	\(Plain\left(\frac{1}{1}\right)\)	60
B	100% Cotton Poplin	\(\frac{38\times 38}{102\times 92}\)		60
C	100% Cotton Voile	\(\frac{48\times 48}{110\times 100}\)		60