2.2.2. Testing and Characterizing
Scouring of Wool Fiber
Un-scoured wool is called greasy wool. The wool fiber yield was determined after all impurities are removed from the raw wool fiber [16]. Scouring of the Wool fibers is the first step in the processing of wool fibre into yarn [14]. The conditioned greasy wool fiber samples weighing about 120g from each type were scoured using a liquor ratio of 1:50, a temperature of 60◦C with 2 g/L of Eco-nonionic detergent X100. The greasy wool fibers were immersed into the scouring solution and soaked for 20 min. After soaking for 20 minutes, the greasy wool fibers were removed from the scouring bath and then pushed gently into the warm water (i.e., 60◦C) to be washed for 10 minutes, then the water was drained out. The samples were again subjected to a second scouring bath with the same liquor ratio, temperature, quantity of detergent and duration as in the first bath and soaked for 20 minutes. The samples were then rinsed with water at a temperature of 60◦C and then the rinse water was drained out and then the samples were cold washed. The wool fibers were then dried in an oven at 60◦C for 24hours, the dried scoured wool samples were then conditioned at 20 ± 2◦C, 65 ± 3% relative humidity for over 24hours and then weighed using the electronic balance to obtain their final weight. This constant dry weight is recorded for use in later calculations. After scouring there will still be residual impurities remaining in the wool and these must be measured by more sophisticated methods.
Determination of Wool Fiber Moisture Regain
Because of the wool fibers have a hygroscopic characteristic, the moisture regain of wool in particular Ethiopian wool must be characterized. Moisture regain is well-defined as the weight of water in the wool fiber expressed as a percentage of the oven dry weight of the wool fiber. The moisture regain of raw wool was determined after obtaining the weight of wool dried at 1050C for 20minuts on the ETADRY machine according to ASTMD1576-13 [17]. The drying temperature during testing was set to 103 ◦C. Moisture regain is calculated based on Eq. 1, where Wd is the mass of the dry specimen and Wm is the weight of the conditioned specimen.
Moisture regain of the scoured samples was tested by oven-dry testing method as specified by IWTO-33, “method for the determination of oven-dry mass and calculated invoice mass of scoured or carbonized wool by International Wool Textile Organisation”. The drying temperature during testing was set to 103◦C and the moisture regain of the samples was obtained using Eq. 1.
\(Moisture regain\%= \frac{\left(Wm -Wd\right)}{Wd} \times 100\%\) --------------------------(1)
Vegetable Matter (VM) Testing
To know the vegetable matter, 40g dry scoured wool fiber samples were dissolved in hot 10% alkali (caustic soda) solution. The alkali-insoluble impurities were then rinsed, dried and weighed and expressed as a percentage of the 40g test specimen. Wool fiber ash residue percentage was determined from the dried scoured subsamples incinerated for two hours at a temperature of 750 ◦C. The percentage of grease residue was evaluated by an alcohol extractable matter test on a Soxhlet extractor.
Carbonized Vegetable Matter Testing
The weighed, scoured and preconditioned wool sample were carbonized by using 5–7% sulfuric acid and 1–2 g/L nonionic detergent with 1:25 liquor ratio, socked for 2–3 hours at 20–30◦C and then rinsed and dried at 60◦C to a low regain, followed by baking at 100◦C to carbonize the vegetable matter. Next samples passed through heavy rollers to crush and then shaken to remove the embrittled vegetable matter. Lastly samples passed through sodium carbonate neutralizing solution, rinsed with a small addition of detergent and dried at room temperature. The samples conditioned at a standard temperature of 20 ± 2◦C and humidity of 65 ± 2% for 24 hours, the weight of the samples was recorded.
Determination of Wool Fiber Yield (Y)
The yield test was performed according to IWTO-19 which comprises removing of all impurities and moisture to get wool base percentage. Wool base is oven dry weight free from all types of impurities expressed as a percentage of the weight of the sample. In calculating the commercial wool fiber yields, wool base (WB), vegetable matter base (VMB) and hard heads base (HH) are used and standard allowances for moisture, small amounts of residual ash (dust) and alcohol extractable matter left after processing are considered. The general wool fiber yield formula calculation is based on Eq. 2 as follows:
\(Wool yield = \frac{\left(WB \times (10+Regain\%\right)}{\left(100 -Ash residue and alcholextractivs)\right)}\) ------------------------------------(2)
In this study the following two formulae (ASTM and IWTO standard) were used to calculate different commercial wool fiber yields. ASTM Clean Wool Fibre Present (ASTM CWFP): uses an allowance of 13.64% regain and 2.27% ash and alcohol extractives. IWTO Clean Wool Content (IWTO CWC): uses an allowance of 2.27% residual ash and alcohol extractives and 17% regain.
\(ASTM Clean Wool Fiber present = WB \times 1.1628\) ------------------------------(3)
\(IWTO CWC =WB \times 1.1972\) -------------------------------------------------------------(4)