2.1. Materials
The fabric used was plain weave polyester (PET) having areal density 61 g/m2 and Bio-shell coated disper dyes Microcapsule. Materials used for preparation of shell were gelatin-A (alkali extracted high IEP 8.7), and gum acacia (Acacia Senegal) supplied by Aragum Flavor, India. Disperse dyes CBENE Yellow SGL (C.I. Disperse Yellow 114, λmax, 410 nm) (Fig. 1) was supplied by Colorbrand Dyestuff (P) Ltd., India. Other chemicals used acetic acid, di-methyl formamide, sodium hydroxide, sodium dithionite dispersing agent (SPAN 20) and nonionic surfactant (Auxipon NP) was supplied by S.D. Fine Chemicals, India for preparation and analysis of microcapsules. All the above chemicals were of laboratory regent grade.
2.1.1. Details of complex coacervate Bio-shell Microcapsule
The work (Mishra et al. 2012) reported that, disperse dye microcapsules formed by complex coacervation had been superior (efficiency of microencapsulation, size distribution, release rate and thermal stability) than the microcapsules obtained from simple coacervation and spray drying. Complex coacervation microcapsules were obtained by a simple physico-chemical batch type method maintaining ratio of core (disperse dye) to shell (gelatin and gum acacia) at 1:2. The characterization of the microcapsule is given in Table 1 (Mishra et al. 2012).
Table 1
Characterization of microcapsules
Parameters
|
Microencapsulated
|
Size, µ
|
16.375
|
Shape
|
Spherical in collapsed form with smooth surface
|
Size distribution, µ
|
3.6- 36.35 (0.12) (Binomial distribution)
|
Thermal stability, ° C
|
≥ 300
|
Dye release rate, min
|
≥ 150
|
Efficiency of microencapsulation, %
|
74.13
|
2.2. Methods
2.2.2. Method of colouration
Colouration was carried out using control and microencapsulated disperse dye (2%) on weight of Fabric (OWF) separately. The appropriate concentration of microcapsulated dye for producing 2% shade depth as similar as control (disperse dye) was estimated. For this, 0.0025% of control dye solution was prepared with DMF (solvent) and its absorbance was determined. Different concentration of microencapsulated dye solution was prepared with DMF (dipping the microcapsules for 12 h) to match with the absorbance of control dye. From the reported study, it was observed that, to obtain same shade and depth, the weight of microcapsules had to be 4.7 times of control dye. Colouration was carried out in a closed exhaust bath (pressure 1.8 kg/cm2) maintaining material to liquor ratio, 1:15.
Conventional colouration of polyester fabrics was carried out with essential chemicals viz., dispersing agent (2%) and acetic acid (1%). The dyeing temperature was raised slowly to 130° C at the rate of 2°C/min having 1 h holding time at 130°C (Waheed and Ashraf 2000). The dyed samples were further treated with reducing agent (3 g/l sodium hydro sulphite) and alkali (2.5 g/l sodium hydroxide) for 30 min at 70–80° C having material to liquor ratio, 1:15 to remove the unfixed dyes and additives. Control samples were then given a hot wash, neutralized with acetic acid followed by further wash before air drying.
Colouration with microcapsules was carried out similar to the conventional one other than the comparatively faster (5° C/min) rate of heating without any essential auxiliary chemicals. The microencapsulated dyed samples were simply washed in water before drying in air.
2.2.3. Recycling possibility
Microencapsulated colouration on Polyester fabrics dyed in fresh water and in remnant water (from consecutive dyeing baths) was carried out using similar amount of microencapsulated dyes (2%, OWF) in each cycle separately. The difference in surface colour uptake (K/S) of the dyed fabrics was evaluated up to four dyeing cycles.
2.2.4. Colour yield measurement
Dyed samples were evaluated for tone and depth of the colour using a spectrophotometer (Data Colour Spectraflash® SF 300, USA) using CIE Standard Illuminant D65 and 10° observer. Tone of the colour was measured in terms of CIE L* (lightness or darkness), a* (redness or greenness) and b* (blueness or yellowness) values of the colour. In order to derive the CIE, the parameters L, a, and b color space values (based on the opponent color theory) the following expressions were used.
L * = 116 (Y/Yn)1/3, a* = 500 [(X/X n)1/3 -(Y/Yn)1/3], and b* = 200 [(Y/Yn)1/3 -(Z/Zn)1/3]
where, X, Y, Z and Xn, Yn, Zn, are tristimulus values of the object and the white point of the illuminant respectively.
Depth of the colour of both conventional and microencapsulated dyed samples was evaluated by reflectance values (Data Colour Spectraflash® SF 300, USA). An average of five readings of reflection taken at different places of a sample was used to calculate the surface colour uptake (K/S) and change of colour (ΔE).
(ΔE) = [(lsam-lstd)2 + (asam-astd)2 + (bsam-bstd)2]1/2
where, lsam-lstd,asam-astd, bsam-bstd, is the difference in lightness, redness or blueness and brightness respectively between standard (control) and the sample. The differences in hue and chroma value were determined by hsam-hstd, csam-cstd respectively.
2.2.5. Effect of colouration on migration of dye
The effect of colouration process (conventional and microencapsulation) on migration of dye from bath liquor to polyester was studied. Three cycles of colouration was carried out using fresh cloth in each time. The first dying cycle was carried outsimilar to the chemical recipe and conditions mentioned earlier. However, in subsequent two cycles, colouration was attempted using liquor left from their previous batch of corresponding conventional and microencapsulated colouration cycle without addition of dyes or/and chemicals.
2.2.6. Estimation of quantity of dye particles in remnant bath after microencapsulation and conventional colouration
The residual bath liquors after preparation of microcapsules and colouration cycles were assessed for the residual dye content. For assessment of absorbance, residual bath liquors (5 ml) were mixed with di-methyl formamide (5 ml) to make a solution, which was analyzed against the blank solvent prepared by mixing water and DMF in the ratio of 1:1. The absorbance of the dye present in remnant liquor was measured at their corresponding λmax using an UV-1201 single beam spectrophotometer (SHIMADZU, Japan) and the concentration of dye particles present in them were determined by using the calibration curve.
To plot the calibration graph, pure dyes were collected by extracting in benzene in a Soxhlet apparatus for 48 h. The removal of impurities from disperse dyes was assessed by Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) method before and after the soxhlation.
2.2.7. Assessment of colour, pH, TDS, BOD and COD of the remnant liquor
The pH, total dissolved solid (TDS) and conductivity of the effluent at different stages were measured by using a pH electrode (PCS Tester 35, Make-EVTECH). Change in colour of the treated effluent was assessed using UV-1201 single beam spectrophotometer (SHIMADZU, Japan). Chemical oxygen demand (COD) and biological oxygen demand (BOD) of the effluent was analyzed by the open reflux method according to APHA 22nd Edition, 2012-5220B and IS: 3025 (PART – 44) 1993: Reaffirmed 2003 methods respectively.
2.2.8. Toxicity of sludge
Sludge was examined in a double beam FTIR spectrophotometer (ALPHA-Bruker-Germany) using attenuated transmittance resonance (ATR) technique.Toxicity of the sludge was obtained through analysis of lethal dose concentration (LD50).