Various studies on the effects of GSH on skin properties have been conducted using an effective amount of 250 or 500 mg per day [6–8]. However, this study, together with our previous study [12], showed conclusively that a low dose of cysteine peptides (48 mg/day) is significantly effective in suppressing UV-B-induced skin damage and brightening the skin. These findings of dose independence may provide new insights into the association between the oral intake of GSH and cellular GSH levels. Some human studies have demonstrated that even relatively large doses (1000 or 3000 mg per day) of oral GSH supplementation do not increase blood GSH levels [17, 18]. A previous animal study with rats also suggested that oral administration of GSH did not significantly affect GSH levels in the liver when sufficient amounts of GSH can be synthesized [19]. By contrast, a 6-month-long human study utilizing dosages of 250 or 1000 mg/day led to significant increases in body stores of GSH in a dose- and time-dependent manner when the possible differences in erythrocyte volume and number, which significantly influence GSH levels, were taken into consideration [20]. Furthermore, levels of protein-bound forms of GSH, γ-Glu-Cys, and Cys-Gly in plasma, were found to significantly increase after oral GSH administration (50 mg/kg body weight) [21]. This may be one of the reasons why oral administration of free GSH did not effectively increase blood GSH levels. Based on these previous human studies, the effect of oral supplementation of GSH on GSH levels in the body remains inconclusive because of the complex disposition of oral GSH in the body and the handling and measurement techniques required to properly quantify GSH levels. By contrast, in vitro studies have shown that GSH depletion leads to an increased susceptibility to oxidative damage and increased ROS levels, eventually resulting in cell death [22, 23]. GSH depletion is also involved in numerous diseases through chronic proinflammatory conditions in humans [24]. These reports suggest that the effects of oral supplementation with GSH may not be dose-dependent but are more dependent on the baseline characteristics of the subjects. To design the present clinical study, we hypothesized several characteristics of healthy subjects who are more susceptible to UV-B-induced skin damage and may receive more benefits from the cysteine peptides supplementation and implemented them in the inclusion criteria. The first characteristic was a lower MED and the skin phototype. A previous study reported that for subjects with a lower MED (25–30 mJ/cm2), formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer, a major type of UV-B induced DNA damage, at post-UV irradiation was higher [25]. In addition, subjects with skin phototype I tend to form more cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers than those with skin phototype III [26]. To test participants at a relatively higher risk of UV-B-induced skin damage, we included participants with a lower MED than those with skin phototypes II or III. The second characteristic is advanced age. GSH in the body decreases with age in people older than 30 years [27]; hence, we included individuals aged 30–59 years. Furthermore, many studies on skin properties have been conducted in females because of the difficulty of including male participants in similar studies. In this study, we aimed to ensure that at least 30% of the participants were males, so that the male-to-female ratio of the study population would be more representative of the national population. Unfortunately, the cellular GSH level was not measured in this study, which limits the discussion of the association between oral administration of cysteine peptides and cellular GSH levels. However, the significant effect of the low dose of cysteine peptides on UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation shown in this study suggests that this is largely due to the characteristics of subjects who were susceptible to UV-B-induced skin damage and therefore benefited from the cysteine peptides supplementation.
GSH is one of the non-enzymatic antioxidants in skin cells that exists in a concentration gradient and is more abundant in the outer layer [28]. They play crucial roles in maintaining an optimal redox balance by quenching ROS and protecting against oxidative stress and UV-B-induced skin deterioration [2, 29]. A negative correlation between GSH levels and DNA damage has been observed in the liver and kidney cells of aging mice [30]. GSH is potentially involved in DNA repair and multiple cell signaling pathways [31]. GSH and γ-Glu-Cys are known to play important roles in the endogenous antioxidant defense system against UV-B-induced oxidative stress [32]. Several in vitro and in vivo studies investigated the protective effect of γ-Glu-Cys against UV-B radiation demonstrating both its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties [33–35]. Inflammatory stimuli such as UV-B irradiation increases the expression of glutathione synthetase through activation of nuclear factor-erythroid 2-related factor (Nrf2) and nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) pathways, thereby stimulating GSH synthesis from γ-Glu-Cys [33]. Unlike GSH, γ-Glu-Cys can be easily taken up by cells and suppresses excess ROS accumulation and GSH depletion by increasing GSH levels [33]. An in vitro study of pretreatment with γ-Glu-Cys demonstrated its effects of directly restoring the antioxidant defense system after exposure to UV-B radiation, reducing apoptosis rate, preventing DNA damage, and suppressing the activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathways [34]. Based on these previous findings, GSH and its constituents are expected to play vital roles in protecting cells from UV through the antioxidant defense by eliminating ROS and direct protection and repair of cells and DNA. No human studies have yet investigated the protective effects of oral supplementation with GSH or its constituents against UV-B-induced skin damage, although many studies have demonstrated the skin-brightening effect of oral GSH intake.
The antioxidant ability of the cysteine peptides was considered the primary factor in the suppression of UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation in this study. We determined the radical scavenging rate of the yeast extract HITHION™ YH-15 compared to GSH alone using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, the most commonly used method to determine antioxidant ability [35]. Our results indicated that HITHION™ YH-15 (2.4 mg/ml, which includes 0.3 mg/ml GSH) has significantly greater radical scavenging capacity (*p = 0.042; Student’s unpaired t-test) compared to the equivalent amount of GSH (0.3 mg/ml; Figure S2), suggesting that the other constituents of cysteine peptides, including γ-Glu-Cys and Cys-Gly, may also contribute to its antioxidant ability. However, this in chemico assay does not reflect the oral intake of cysteine peptides because its degradation and resynthesis in the body have not been considered [36]. Orally-ingested GSH is directly absorbed only in small amounts in the intestines via the GSH transporter and then transported to the blood plasma in bound forms with proteins, including albumin and low-molecular-weight thiol compounds [37]. The majority of orally taken GSH is degraded extracellularly by degradative enzymes such as γ-glutamyl transpeptidase and dipeptidase into dipeptides and amino acids such as cysteine, glutamyl acid, and glycine. These amino acids are then taken up by cells via amino acid transporters and intracellularly regenerate GSH by γ-glutamyl-cysteine synthetase and glutathione synthetase [38, 39]. Oral administration of GSH precursors such as N-acetylcysteine (NAC) and glycine is beneficial for increasing cellular GSH levels in patients with GSH deficiency [24]. γ-Glu-Cys was also evaluated to be more effective in elevating cellular GSH levels under lipopolysaccharide stimulation and exhibit a stronger anti-inflammatory effect than NAC in vitro [33]. The major rate-limiting factor in GSH synthesis in cells is the amount of cysteine present [40]. Glycine is also considered a rate-limiting factor in GSH production, and human studies have suggested that oral administration of glycine potentially counteracts oxidative stress and inflammation [41, 42]. Therefore, dipeptides such as γ-Glu-Cys and Cys-Gly in cysteine peptides can be additional sources of cysteine as well as glutamyl acid and glycine to enhance intracellular GSH production when GSH is depleted due to UV-B-induced oxidative stress.
The significant suppression of UV-induced pigmentation as ΔL* value by cysteine peptides demonstrated in this study can be mainly explained by the multiple inhibitory mechanisms of melanin production by GSH such as disruption of the intracellular trafficking of tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for melanin production, to melanosomes [43], suppressing the activity of tyrosinase, and inducing the production of pheomelanin (light-colored melanin) instead of eumelanin (dark-colored melanin) [6, 7]. As GSSG has been shown to reduce melanin indices and UV spots in a previous human study [7], GSSG in cysteine peptides may contribute to the suppression of pigmentation through its reduction to GSH. In the present study, although the change in ΔL* showed a significant decrease, only the change in Δmelanin index did not show a significant difference between groups. We speculate that this is because the Mexameter®, which was used to measure the melanin index in this study, is unable to distinguish between the two types of melanin, pheomelanin and eumelanin. The skin-brightening effect of cysteine peptides shown in a previous study [12] is probably due to the suppression of extra pigmentation from daily UV exposure and the promotion of skin turnover via the regulation of other antioxidants such as vitamin C [44].
This study has several limitations. Since levels of cellular GSH or its protein-bound forms in plasma were not measured, there was a limited focus on the associations among the oral supplementation of low-dose cysteine peptides, changes in GSH levels, and UV protective effects. Further in vivo studies are required to measure the changes in cellular and epidermal GSH concentrations due to the oral administration of the cysteine peptides, with labeling of the four components of the cysteine peptides to investigate their dispositions. Because the effect of GSH alone was not tested in this study for comparison, another clinical trial investigating the effects of GSH alone is needed to confirm the necessity of the cysteine peptides. A low dose of cysteine peptides may be involved in multiple mechanisms of skin health promotion, but the precise mechanisms or new insights to explain its effects were not demonstrated in this study. This study was conducted in Japan, and the number and characteristics of participants were therefore limited. Moreover, a larger number of subjects with diverse characteristics must be included in future studies to confirm this effect. In addition, this study used only UV-B irradiation, which is not equivalent to the UV radiation to which we are exposed on a daily basis. Further studies coupled with studies on the effects of UV-A irradiation help assess the long-term effect of cysteine peptides on photoaging.
Oral administration of cysteine peptides, as a nutricosmetic [45], may not only be beneficial for maintaining skin health but also for contributing to individual overall health and well-being by encouraging people to have moderate sun exposure and improving vitamin D status [46]. Recently, 98% of Japanese individuals have been found to have vitamin D deficiency [47]. Lifestyle changes, including the excessive use of physical UV protection to avoid sunburn and suntan, result in inadequate exposure to sunlight. However, UV-B radiation of the skin is also essential for the effective and rapid production of vitamin D, which attenuates premature skin aging and cancer by inducing antioxidant responses, inhibiting DNA damage, and inducing DNA repair mechanisms [48, 49]. In addition, vitamin D has been reported to upregulate cellular GSH levels in vitro by activating glutamate cysteine ligase and glutathione reductase, and decreasing ROS and proinflammatory cytokines [50]. Besides external UV care, such as sunscreen, options for internal care with oral supplementation of cysteine peptides may encourage people to partake in moderate sun exposure, allowing them to benefit from the positive consequences of vitamin D and GSH production while minimizing UV-B-induced skin damage, thereby promoting individual well-being.
In conclusion, the present study demonstrated that oral administration of the low dose of cysteine peptides (48 mg/day) suppresses UV-B-induced erythema and pigmentation, possibly through multiple mechanisms. Thus, cysteine peptides have great potential as a nutricosmetic to maintain skin health and well-being.