In 1856, William Henry Perkin first introduced synthetic dyes, and at that time, synthetic dyes were widely accepted in the textile industry because of their low cost. Synthetic colorants are toxic or have a non-biodegradable nature. In the last few decades, synthetic dyes cause harmful effects on human health like carcinogenic and allergic reactions to the skin, to address the issue of toxicity the use of synthetic colorants is decreasing gradually. (Bhute, 2015). Synthetic dyes are organic compounds that are soluble in water, particularly those that are direct, acidic, basic, and reactive. The high solubility of synthetic dyes in water makes them difficult to remove by using traditional methods. The chromophoric group in the molecular structure of synthetic dyes can transmit the color to another substrate. The auxo chromic groups which are polar and can bind to the polar groups of textile fibers are responsible for the fixation of color to the material (Lellis et al., 2019). At present, a large number of synthetic dyes are used, around about 10,000,000 tons per annum. The manufacturing of synthetic dyes releases a large number of unfixed dyes. Moreover, synthetic dyes are not eco-friendly. Germany was the first country to impose a ban on the production and the use of specific azo dyes. The ban was also followed by some countries like India and Netherlands but synthetic pigments are still in use (Verma and Gupta, 2017).
The public’s growing awareness of environmental preservation, health concerns, and sustainability resulted in eco-friendly-resourced colorants that have created a new era in textile development and research. Furthermore, environmental maintenance concerns compelled western countries to use their advanced technical skills in textile materials for high-quality technical performance and production of cost-effective value-added textile products (Yusuf et al., 2017). The use of natural dyestuff instead of synthetic dyes is environmentally friendly and they do not pose any toxic effect on the wearer. The soft, soothing shades were produced by the use of natural dyestuff (Jordeva et al., 2020).
In the process of natural dyeing, there is one major problem natural dyes have limited sources for colorants but in the last few years, a lot of different methods were proceeded to find new roots for pigments of natural colorants from forestry and farming i.e., bark and woods, and also from food wastage like onion peels (Miah et al., 2017) and crushed barriers (Prabhu and Teli, 2014). Natural colorants are non-toxic, less pollutant, and have a less damaging effect on health. Natural colorants are renewable because they are obtained from natural sources and at the same time they are biodegradable. (Murugesh Babu and Ravindra, 2015). The shades of natural colorants are soothing to the human eye. Using different mordants or dyeing techniques with the same dye or with different concentration of mordants on the same dye gives us a variety of shades (Samanta et al., 2020).
In the dyeing process of textiles, natural colorants produce poor colors to improve the deficiency of color. Different types of mordant are used for textile dyeing. Metals ions are present in the mordant which play the role of an electron acceptor for the donor. Mordant forms a coordination bond with dye and also provides help in making a water-insoluble structure. The complex formation of mordant not only enhances the color of the fabric but also encourages the shades to maintain the colorants and make the colors look richer (Arora et al., 2017). Natural dyes are used in many fields like UV protective finishing, food colorants, beauty aids, sensitized solar cells, and insect-repellent finishing (Wangatia et al., 2015).
In this research work, the shaking method was used for the extraction of dyes from different flowers R. indica(red rose), T. erecta(marigold), and B. glabra(bougainvillea) dyed on cotton fabric using various mordants. Both natural and synthetic mordants were tested and compared for their efficiency against naturally extracted dyes.