Natural dyes were the only source of color for textiles until the serendipitous formation of the dye Mauveine by William Perkins, in 1856 (Drivas et al. 2011). Following this discovery, synthetic dyes soon became available worldwide, and by 1880 most natural dyes were replaced by synthetic dyes on a global scale (Drivas et al. 2011; Yusuf et al. 2017). This occurred because natural dyes had the disadvantage of needing a metal (Met) mordant (e.g., Al3+, Fe2+) for anchoring them to textile fibers (cf. Figure 1A), due to their generally poor affinity for commercially available fibers. However, commercial synthetic dyes exhibited direct fiber affinity (cf. Figure 1B, high reproducibility of their shades, wide range of colors, and more cost-effective application methods (Samanta and Konar 2011).
In the early days of synthetic dyes, concerns about their use were mainly related to performance and costs, as the industrial community was not yet aware of the potential adverse effects of dyes on human health and aquatic life (Dharma Trading 2017). Over time, the accumulation of data pertaining to the toxicological properties of certain synthetic dyes and their precursors to a variety of organisms (Bandala et al. 2008; Erkurk et al. 2007; Gao and Tan 2013) led to renewed interest in the use of natural dyes as alternatives to synthetic ones. Unfortunately, the fact that natural dyes have poor affinity for textiles (Samanta and Konar 2011) can lead to high dye levels in the resultant wastewater and the need for treatment to remove them (Chequer et al. 2013).
Dyes reaching wastewater treatment plants can undergo partial or complete transformation/degradation of the parent compound. When degradation is incomplete, reaction products generated can have different toxicological properties than the parent compound (Rodil et al. 2012; Puvaneswari et al. 2006; Copaciu et al. 2013). One of these treatment methods is chlorination (Cl2 treatment), which is the best known and most common method used worldwide in wastewater treatment plants for water disinfection purposes. Chlorine can be applied as a gas which is cost-effective and efficient (Drinan and Spellman 2013; Stuetz and Stephenson 2009). For certain azo dyes, chlorination of wastewater has also led to the formation of toxic (Vacchi et al. 2013) and mutagenic compounds (Vendemiatti et al. 2021; De Oliveira et al. 2006; Watanabe et al. 2001).
Among the natural dyes used in textile coloration is the well-known orange-red dye madder, found in dried roots of the Rubia tinctorum L plant. Madder has been used since ancient times in the coloration of silk, wool and cotton, producing shades from pink to black, depending on the mordant used (Ferreira et al. 2004). Its composition depends on the species from which extraction occurred and the extraction method employed (Bechtold and Massak 2009); however, it is generally composed of anthraquinone derivatives. There are several studies concerning madder’s carcinogenic and mutagenic potential (Ino et al. 1995; Inoue et al. 2008a; Inoue et al. 2008b; Inoue et al. 2009; Yasui and Takeda 1983; Westendorf et al. 1988; Jäger et al. 2006; Kawasaki et al. 1992), but no information was found concerning the aquatic toxicity of madder or its chlorinated solutions.
The objective of this study was to characterize a madder sample, treat it with chlorine gas, and study the composition and the ecotoxicity of the resultant chlorinated solution. Additionally, we wanted to propose a degradation pathway for the major component of the studied madder sample after chlorination.