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Sustainable fish is a question of place and interpretation
Overall, the importance and level of sustainability of fish products in Switzerland vary mainly across distribution channels and, to a lesser degree, on other factors including cultural aspects. A majority of respondents believe that the Swiss retail sector has made serious efforts to improve its product ranges over the past decade and that retailers today largely sell sustainable fish. However, there is a consensus that within the restaurant and food service (RFS) sector, sustainability is far from playing an important role. High competition and price-sensitivity seem to hinder stronger acceptance. Price differences were also flagged as the main reason why not all fish products were sustainable in the retail sector. According to interviewees, price differences between sustainable and unsustainable products depend on the species and can be large for certain species. What is more, sustainability of products is much more challenging to communicate within the RFS sector than the retail sector: Unlike with packaged products, “fish labels can hardly be attached to a plate,” as one respondent put it. This limits the visibility of ecolabels in restaurants. Representatives from the sector furthermore explained that in RFS availability was a key requirement and mostly translates to species and freshness, coupled with a demand for small quantities of fish only. This necessitates remarkably high flexibility for the seller and makes it all the more difficult to put sustainability of products at the center. Others explained that in gourmet and speciality shops, availability was paramount in terms of a broad product range. In such shops, rare or exotic products might be a key sales point. In terms of sustainability, however, rare and exotic products often score poorly. In contrast, retail shops focus more on species that are consumed “in masses,” including salmon, shrimp, tuna, and cod. Experts pointed out that particularly for discounters, which only feature a few fish items, selling uniquely sustainable fish was not much of a challenge compared to a restaurant or gourmet shop, where guests look for an alternative to the fish they already eat at home. For these reasons, experts flagged the RFS sector as a big challenge for sustainability. Some respondents also explained that cultural or geographic factors had an influence on the level of sustainability. For example, consumers of Mediterranean origin had specific preferences due to their cultural heritage. These consumers appreciate fish with certain cultural value regardless of their sustainability performance.
The level of sustainability is also a question of interpretation. While major retailers and other key actors use the “World Wide Fund (WWF) seafood guides” as an orientation for sustainability, there is no agreement of where to draw the line between sustainable and unsustainable products. The WWF seafood guides, which are meant to help consumers make the right buying decision, separate fish products into four categories: green for “recommended,” orange for “acceptable,” red for “avoid,” and blue for “recommended fish labels.” WWF-recommended labels include the aquaculture stewardship council (ASC), the marine stewardship council (MSC) and organic labels. According to the WWF, “acceptable” products are not sustainable. On pressure from members of the Seafood Group, however, WWF Switzerland allowed members to advertise such products as sustainable in the past, an exception that ended on December 31, 2020. Starting in January 2021, WWF recommendations in Switzerland were aligned with communication from other WWF offices and certain fish that could be sold as ‘sustainable fish’ in 2020, is no longer considered sustainable in 2021, even though production practices are exactly the same as before.
2. Swiss or ‘local’ produce
Independent of WWF recommendations, there appears to be a common perception that domestic fish is sustainable. Many retailers feature products labeled as “regional produce.” While suggesting a “preferred product” compared to others, these label schemes do not integrate any environmental objectives. Migros’ “Aus der Region” label simply defines the geographic scope of production. Coop does not publish information on what a producer must fulfill for its products to be sold under the label “Miini Region,” though the name suggests similar requirements. Nevertheless, most interviewees shared the view that Swiss produce is sustainable. Among others, experts believe that “Switzerland disposes of sound regulations” and “compared to imported fish, the eco-footprint of Swiss fish is lower.” They further observed that Swiss fish would in any case be better than imported fish, mainly for two reasons. First, in the words of one respondent “there were no reports of disturbing production practices such as those exposed in the pangasius (Pangasionodon hypophthalmus) industries in Vietnam.” The second reason is found in short value chains with reduced energy use for transportation. According to respondents, short transportation routes result in positive environmental outcomes compared to imported fish products, which require long transportation routes by ship and road or (in the worst case) even by plane. Others were more sceptical and believe that “Swissness” was pure marketing, a claim supported by the observation that availability of local products was more important than their sustainability performance. For example, some lake fish species have a strong local tradition in Switzerland, such as rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss), pike-perch (Sander lucioperca) and lake whitefish (various Coregonus spp., locally labeled “Felchen”). These are apparently a big challenge for the entire Swiss fish sector due to reduced wild populations and decreasing catch volumes in recent decades. According to respondents, the production gap of traditional lake species, however, could not be compensated with imports even if their sustainability performance were better compared to local produce, simply because they are not Swiss produce. Other interviewees expressed particular concern regarding adequate legal requirements for aquaculture production in Switzerland. There appears to be no national aquaculture framework and regulations therefore strongly vary throughout the country. Furthermore, small-scale fish farming in traditional cattle or pig farms as an additional source of income is largely exempt from regulations that apply to commercial fish farms. In contrast to professional fish farms, agriculture farmers are not required to have fish knowledge, and effluent water does not need to be treated before discharge. In addition, there are limited requirements regarding animal welfare and chemical use. Experts therefore view the proliferation of “amateur” fish production as damaging.
3. WWF’s influence on the definition of sustainable fish
The influence of the WWF on the sustainable fish movement in Switzerland is undisputed among experts. Out of 25 interviewed, 15 believe that the WWF is the organization that most influences the definition of sustainable fish. The other big driving force, mentioned by six respondents, is the two major retailers Coop and Migros, as well as the retail business in general, which in turn are influenced by the WWF (Fig. 1). Five experts pointed out that the term sustainable fish is not officially defined by anyone and that, consequently, different actors use varying definitions.
The WWF’s theory of change lies in transforming value chains by working at the consumer end with two audiences. Consumers are the main target, since a change of consumption depends on the choices they make. To this end, the WWF has developed its consumer guides for fish to help consumers make informed choices when buying fish. Its recommendations are based on assessments using two methodologies (fisheries versus aquaculture), which the WWF developed together with partner organizations to assess the sustainability of fish production units. Not obvious for consumers (who only see the WWF’s color scheme) is the “score” that results from these assessments. Every analyzed production unit receives a score between 1 and 5, where 1 is the best and 5 the worst. Products with a score of 1 or 2 are considered sustainable fish, whereas those scoring 3, 4 and 5 indicate unsustainable production practices, even though, as mentioned already, in Switzerland a score of 3 could be marketed as sustainable as recently as the end of December 2020.
Seven experts (n = 25) mentioned either the WWF’s seafood guides or the WWF score as the dominant mean for implementing sustainability targets. Together with 14 positive replies for “labels,” the guides and scoring system are believed to be key in driving a sustainable transformation in the Swiss fish sector.
The second main target of the WWF is key retail companies, with whom it has entered into “partnerships” that aim to improve their product ranges together. To have a sector-wide impact, the Seafood Group was created in 2009, consisting of representatives from the retail and the RFS sectors and coordinated by WWF through a roundtable. The group was active until the end of 2015, when it was apparently dissolved due to “different agendas” and lack of capacities to fulfill the group’s vision. While representatives from the RFS sector are no longer in dialogue with the WWF, the organization continues to work with the biggest retailers, such as Coop, Migros, Denner, and Lidl, as well as Bell and Micarna, two subsidiaries of Coop and Migros, respectively, with which they maintain bilateral partnerships.
Several experts were critical toward the power of the WWF and its business partnerships with major retailers, as they see these as monopolizing the sustainable fish paradigm. Judging from their overall feedback, it could be observed that some of these rather skeptical experts were nevertheless—and apparently involuntarily—influenced by the WWF’s interpretations of sustainable fish. They mentioned that the WWF-recommended labels “ASC,” “MSC” and “organic” as well as the WWF score are, together, a good definition for sustainable fish.
Using this approach, an estimated 40% of all fish consumed in Switzerland can be deemed sustainable, with the share of sustainable products being much higher in the retail sector compared to RFS (Fig. 2).
4. The challenge of defining ‘sustainable fish’
Overall, we observed that experts had difficulties defining sustainable fish in their own words. Many definitions focused on maintaining fish biomass without considering other dimensions of sustainability, even where interviewees criticized the absence of a holistic perspective as a weakness in existing rating schemes. The majority of experts believe that the challenge to clearly draw a line between sustainable and unsustainable fish was one of the biggest hindrances in achieving a better performance of the sector. Respondents explained that because the definition of sustainability is subject to individual interpretation, many actors simply use the concept most useful for them, with the goal to claim that they produce, trade, or sell sustainable fish, even where this is not true.
Some respondents fear that it might be impossible to fulfill all criteria that make a fish product sustainable, since, as they explain, “there are always trade-offs between different aspects of sustainability.” They illustrated their point by referring to a controversy they repeatedly found themselves in. When switching to a labeled product from unlabeled fish, they had to change their former supply from the Mediterranean Sea to a fishery farther away. For fish to be sold fresh, this generally means changing the means of transportation from truck to plane, a practice respondents considered totally irresponsible from a sustainability perspective, though the fish products are then considered sustainable.
5. The influence of fish labels
According to a majority of respondents, labels play a key role in consumer perception about fish. The WWF has selected specific ecolabels for products that it considers unconditionally sustainable—regardless of the outcomes when applying its assessment methodology. These labels include MSC for fisheries and ASC and organic labels for farmed products. The share of labeled fish in overall sales according to one of the WWF’s recommended labels is a key performance criteria of the organization’s partners. As a result, the continuous increase of labeled fish as a percentage of fish sales is one of the main sustainability targets. This approach was criticized by some interviewees who believe that it leads to a proliferation of big corporations at the expense of smallholders, thus contributing to further monopolization of the sustainability paradigm.
Some experts pointed out that in addition to the “WWF-imposed labels,” other fish labels can also be considered sustainable. Friends of the Sea (FOS) was mentioned five times, GlobalGAP three times, Fair Trade USA (FTUSA) twice, and Best Aquaculture Practice (BAP) and AquaGAP once each. Several experts believed that GlobalGAP was particularly relevant from a sustainability perspective. On the one hand, the standard has existed much longer than the ASC, is open to more fish species, and has been available for many species before the ASC standard. Experts also believe that overall differences between the ASC and GlobalGAP were minimal, with GlobalGAP being even stricter in certain key areas of concern, such as feed inputs. The similarity could best be illustrated by the large number of ASC certified farms that are also certified according to the GlobalGAP standard. Some respondents therefore regret that the WWF does not acknowledge GlobalGAP as equivalent to the ASC and believe that market interests might influence the decision more than sustainability objectives. Interviewees also questioned WWFs practise of promoting all MSC certified products as sustainable, despite WWF having logged objections to several MSC certifications because it believes the corresponding fisheries are unsustainable.
Twelve of the 25 interviewed experts think that MSC-labeled fish can be considered sustainable, though three had reservations regarding the sustainability of this standard (Fig. 3). The ASC label received the same number of approvals, while 16 experts approved of organic labels.
Respondents explained that labels play a particularly important role in the retail sector, as they make simple tools to communicate sustainability with consumers. As a result, consumer-facing labels such as “ASC,” “MSC” and “organic,” which enjoy high recognition among consumers, are preferred over sustainability standards that are not clearly communicated to consumers, such as GlobalGAP. Lack of visibility was thus mentioned as a drawback for lesser known standards.
Some experts expressed concerns regarding ecolabels. A key concern that was repeatedly brought up is the labels’ narrow definition of sustainability. Respondents explained that the MSC and ASC only focus on environmental sustainability but fail to include social and financial considerations. Other experts resent a better integration of social impacts, economic concerns, and animal welfare. Conflicts of interests (e.g. economic targets as the main goal above sustainability) and inadequate sustainability criteria within these are further constraints of fish labels, though they were cited less frequently. Constraints include the practice of labeling farmed fish as sustainable, even where the feed required to raise the fish contained more food grade fish than the production system produced as net output (fish-in-fish-out ratio > 1). In the respondents’ view, only a production system with a positive net gain should be considered sustainable. They clarified that, from this perspective, carnivorous species such as salmon, seabream, yellowtail, or cobia were impossible to farm sustainably, even if their availability under the ASC suggested otherwise. Further constraints include the perception that, according to the respondents, certain catch methods, such as bottom trawling, could never be sustainable due to habitat destruction but are nevertheless heavily represented in the MSC label.
6. Lack of transparency, social criteria, and better integration of animal welfare
Experts identified lack of transparency, lack of social criteria, and better integration of animal welfare as the main flaws in current sustainability agendas for fish. Regarding transparency, respondents observed that while WWF stressed transparency in value chains as a key to sustainability, the biggest weakness of their fish guides was exactly a lack of transparency. WWF assigns scores to different value chains without providing assessment details, justification or explanations. Interviewees also highlighted that current legal requirements fail short to foster transparency. A mentioned example are mandatory product declarations for fish which are restricted to capture area and capture method category. To determine the sustainability of a product, more detailed information is required such as the specific catch method. Since this information was not officially required, it cannot be verified and as one interviewee described “fish traders can manipulate information to their advantage”, a claim supported by others.
Interviewees further pointed to inconsistencies in ecolabel schemes. Some respondents claim to know that traded volumes of specific MSC products exceed the corresponding fisheries production, which they interpret as proof of systematic cheating. Others witnessed a similar case for the ASC label, where —in publicly available audit documents—some shrimp farms report up to 10 times higher production volumes than these production systems can yield, according to experts and literature. Since several farms are affected, this failure is likely systematic and not a simple mistake.
A failure to better integrate social criteria in “sustainable fish” definitions is a further critique from interviewees. Feedbacks from experts suggests that social aspects are poorly integrated in fishery products and largely limited to farms in farmed fish, whereas most workers engaged in fish value chains were employed in the processing industry. This could lead to a situation where MSC certified fish traded in Switzerland and produced in the USA is processed in China without anyone controlling the labor conditions in China.
A few respondents regret that fish welfare has so far not had a major role in defining sustainable fish. They pointed to “often cruel killing methods even for certified fish” and a lack of legal requirements regarding animal welfare as two areas of concern. Identifying the well-being and integrity of the animal as a key factor in determining sustainable food production, they see the absence of a more prominent role of this topic in current ecolabels as the biggest flaw in fish sustainability debates.